well....
instead of goign to be complicated, if you add a hub motor, then how do you hook up the engine to the wheel? you would have to separate the motor from the engine and the engine from the motors...etc
The easiest way to install the Hub motor in the front wheel. You can find a electric hub motor that will drive you to 35mphin a scoot allready with a rim and tire. Check out EVT scooters
http://www.evtamerica.com/they buy the shells for Chinese scoots and install electric powertrain. where i work at, its a battery company, and they have one there they are modifying it, they added a lithium battery pack. he said he removed over 130 pounds of lead batteries. i raced it with my scoot they went the same acceleration he said he got 50 miles back n forth in the parking lot. With lead batteries.
you can get a hold of one of those motors and a controller if you look good enough. Getting it to work all together, thats the game. to answer ur question.
like i said, installing it in the back is the problem. problem but not impossible. I would go to the front for simplicity. Second. yes you can install the batteries and controller anywhere u please.
Upgrade stator.... not so easy. the stator is inside the flywheel so you have to deal with the limited space. as it is, on small scoots, there very litle to no power extra, only when the engine is reving fast. I think an upgraded voltage controller would be best. You could change the wires in it, but thicker wires will give you more amps and less voltage ( more heat and less efficiency) and thinner wires more voltage less amps ( but more dangerous and harder to limit, and it can damage anything else on the scoot, and the stock voltage regulator will fry) but phisically you cant get any more power. its just not posible, its physics. unless you wind more wire than usual, but the extra wire in such litle space= less air flow, more heat, and it will be harder for the engine to rotate, power you take out for electricity to recharge batteries is power lost at the wheel.
you cannot put a bigger flywheel because it changed the dynamics of the engine, the rotational inertia, and such, it may give u more torque and more takeoff, but it will rotate slower, and in the case of something not goign right, it will be easier for the engine to self destroy. unless you develop some special carbon fiber flywheel, forget about it. not to mention remaking the fan housing, cover, blades, and a new base for the stator which must be perfectly centered, and re-shaping the crankshaft to accept the flywheel.
the effect of the free spinning on the motor depends on the motor itself. if its a brushed motor, then you got two problems. the brushes will wear at any time the rotor is spinning. this will prematurely wear them out because of the excessive wear, and heat generated. the rotation of magnets arround the core, or the core rotating arround magnet, or the magnets in the core..... you get the point. rotating magnetic fields will "induce" a current in the windings, essentially making the motor into a generator. Yes a generator is the reverse of a motor( remember the stator in you scooter? newer scoots like the honda metropolitan dont have a starter, they use the stator, pass current trough it, makes the flywheel act as the motor, and spins it, starting the scoot.)
this voltage in it self may or may not be a problem. if the motor is spun faster than desinged, it will generate a voltage higher than desinged. this can cause the insulation to short out and burn the motor, short it and burn it, or create sparking on the brushes or contacts burning them and premature damage. also the voltage feedback, into the controller, if its desinged to regenerate then the motor can be used a as a brake and can be used a charger so when the scooter is riding you can charge the batteries without using the stator at all. if its not, then it can short and damage the controller, and maybe even overcharge the batteries.
if its a brush less motor, then there are not brushes to wear, and the motor should theoretically last 4 ever. the only problem is the bearings may not be spun too fast, but the bearing will be fine 99% of the time. the magnet still generate electricity, but because there are many transistors operating the motor, they might have bypass diodes to protect them, and there are more chances that the controller has a electric brake mode, whether regenerative or not, means it can handle all the EMF (electro magnetic feedback) the motor can throw.
there is a thrid kind of motor, but i highly doubt you can find one for this application. the Wound motor, has a winding in the stator (non moving) and the rotor ( spinning) and has no magnet, so no EMF. forklifts have these, and electric golfcarts.
if its a 3 Phase induction motor ($$$$$ and very hard to find and apply but not impossible) the none of the problems above apply. electric cars use these motors. they also dont have magnets
and of course with ALL of the options above, the motors will always retain SOME magnetism ( obvious in the magnet type but even the induction and Wound) and this will always induce some current in the metal parts of the motor (bearings, casing, bolts n nuts, the metal pole in the center, other metal objects etc) this is known as Eddy currents, and they warm up the motor slowly, too slow for concern, but this heat is energy and it accounts for lost energy in a motor and thus, how efficient it is. this will cause a minimal drag on the scoot when its running, at all times. like a litle extra brake, tiny, but still there.
its not impossible, and like u said. A "simple" conversion can be made quite simple, but to have a Hybrid " vehicle" that is fully automated and functional might require a bit of engineering.
scoot on

PS: Stumbled upon this while doing some research on this topic, Electric scoot by honda
http://paultan.org/photo/Honda-EVE-Neo/